21th  April to 3rd  May 2009

This etapa takes you through the heart of the Arab world. From the Syrian to the Iranian capital it is an amazing journey through desert, across the two great rivers of the Euphrates and the Tigris and into the Elburz Mountains that overlook the Caspian Sea.

Damascus is a beautiful and charming city, inhabited continuously for the past 7,000 years it is among the oldest cities in the world. You will want to take time exploring the twisting streets and narrow lanes, but also visit the Umayyad Mosque which is justifiably famous for its golden mosaics. To the north and close to the Lebanese border is Crac de Chevaliers the most complete of the Crusader Castles that dot the region. Built by the Knights Hospitalliers in the 12th century, its mighty walls were never breached and remain seemingly impregnable.

Syria is full of historic sites dating from the Byzantine, Babylonian, Roman and Christian empires and the city at Palmyra is one of the best Roman examples. The remains of the Temple of Bel date from the Romans, but the site was first consecrated by the Babylonians to worship their superior god, Bel. In the northwest of Syria you will also find the rather eerie abandoned Dead Cities of the Byzantines (al-Bara, Jerada and Serjilla).

It is recommended that you avoid crossing into northern Iraq and instead plot your route north into Turkey. Here you will find yet more ancient history in Sanliurfa which is reputedly the birthplace of the prophet Abraham. It is also a lovely place to relax for a day enjoying the shade of the covered bazaar, the leafy gardens of the mosque and the tranquil sacred carp pools. Being over 6,000 years old Harran is a truly ancient village and is full of distinctive beehive shaped mud houses.

The route becomes increasingly difficult as you cross over the Tigris and continue east into the mountains of Turkish Kurdistan. The cultural diversity of this area can be seen in the palace at Ishak Pasa which dominates the valley beneath that leads to the border with Iran. The ancient kingdom of Persia is now the world´s largest theocracy since the 1979 Islamic Revolution. As a country it is full of incredible history, culture and contrasts, if you have time try to visit Esfahan an age old centre for trade, which contains some of the country´s finest architecture including the fabulous Emam Mosque.

In the north you will first discover the thriving city of Tabriz home to Iran´s oldest and largest bazaar, you will be expected to haggle for the bargains that you acquire here!  Deep in the hills are the ruins of the Temple of Soleiman close to Zanjan, while near Qazvin are the mysterious Castles of the Assasins, so named because they were built by the religious cult known as The Assasins.

Tehran itself is fascinating with an incredible location that has the sea on one side and the mountains on the other. It is worth spending a little time here to be able to wander the streets, take in the bazaar, enjoy a qalyan (water pipe) in one of the many teahouses, visit the museums and perhaps even watch some wrestling €“ the favourite sport of Iranians.